Overblog Suivre ce blog
Administration Créer mon blog

Nouveau DVD


pub TMA22


Prochaine Exposition

Upcoming Show

Modelscala 2013Small





Nouvelle video Figurine-TV :

Capture d’écran 2013-06-19 à 16.58.44

démo AMAC35



Promo Guide peinture

















Sigle VallejoMecModelslogoEvolution miniatuure



Search Your Keyword

These pages translated in your own native language with just a click :
Powered by
Google™ Translate
Grab this Widget

free counters











Logo STEEL-copie-1


Prochaine Démonstration

Upcoming showcase


Previous showcase

Précedente Démonstration



demo mondial expo 2012 600 DemoBlastfevrier2012 

Demo chez Blast Models Sept. 2011

demo blast


18 mai 2009 1 18 /05 /mai /2009 18:55

There are several techniques to reproduce a straight edge (I usually use “straight edge” but I think “clean edge” would be more appropriate?) camouflage scheme. You can use pre shaped tape as mask or maskol. The tape masking technique allows the best result although the difficulties to mask out of reach areas. The maskol (more generally mask liquid from humbrol or microscale) might be a good way for this work.  However it often doesn’t remove easily. Some modellers use “white spirit” to remove humbrol maskol but only if your base coat is an acrylic base!!

As far as i am concerned, I noticed that the silly putty looks like the better way to paint this kind of scheme.

I first tried this putty after reading the B1 Bis article from Marcus Nicholls in Tamiya Mag.

It was almost impossible to get these kid putty in France,so i ordered two boxes in UK.  The brand is not silly putty but kinky putty!!

Lately I saw this kind of putty in a toy store in France......



This putty is different from the blue or yellew take (the fixing putty). It’s looks like a polymer with shape memory. You can extend it by slowly streching or cut it withy a fast strectchnig movement.


The tools you need














First your stretch the putty to make slim

part roughly sized.  












Then you cut the amount of putty you need and pre shape it with fingers.



You apply the putty  on the the model’s chosen area. You shape and put it using the tool.

You should know that the silly putty spreads out a little after being set so I advise you to wait few minutes and check again the shape before starting the painting stage.


This putty doesn’t spoil the paint, whatever the time you let it set on the model.

After painting, you have just to remove the putty using a pincel and replace it in its box. It’s re-usable!!!!



Repost 0
Published by El Diablo Model - dans How to.........
commenter cet article
20 avril 2009 1 20 /04 /avril /2009 23:51
Good evening guys,
Here's some pictures to describe how to prepare the resin parts.  I guess most of modellers would find it's quite basic (maybe boring)  but I want to start my explanations with the beginning......

Remove the excess of resin with a small saw (the best tool for small parts is a photo etched saw)

Start to sand the part with a metal file :

Then use a fine sand paper to ensure a smooth surface :

Clean the part with "dish soap"  (or any liquid diswashing soap) and a teeth brush (please take an old one)

Brush the part to remove the grease residue.

Then rinse the part with still water and let it dry.........
Repost 0
Published by Emilien Pépin - dans How to.........
commenter cet article


On The workbench & coming soon...

AM30 EBD - Kowait 1991
 (Best Value Model & Eduard PE & Friul Tracks) 


Vab TC20 (02)
VAB TC20 - Sarajevo 1995
(Heller & Blast Model) 

Last Work Completed
MCL-B1bis 06B1bis & Coder 30t - France 1940
 (Tamiya & Des Kit) 

D1finishedlRenault D1 - France 1940
(Blitz Kit) 

H35-14Hotchkiss H35- France 1937
(Bronco &  Brach Model & Friull) 

SAS Pink Panther - Dhofar 1974
(Tamiya & Eduard)