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26 mai 2009 2 26 /05 /mai /2009 20:49
Good evening,

The FCM2C is now almost completed. Only the  headlight is missing. It will be set soon.





Cheers
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Published by El Diablo Model - dans FCM 2C
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24 mai 2009 7 24 /05 /mai /2009 01:44
Hello,
Paint chipping is now completed.
I show this work only on the turret due to the kit 's size.
The superficial scratches are painted with a lighter color than the camouflage spots base color.





Deeper scratches are painted with black, dark brown and black grey.

The result on the hull.


Now i go to bed.
Good night
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Published by El Diablo Model - dans FCM 2C
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21 mai 2009 4 21 /05 /mai /2009 14:07
Hello everyone,

Today the paint fading is discussed. According to many modellers, this step is the start of weathering. It gives more contrast and  used look to the model.

Before fading, I applied two filters on the model. Colors are chosen compared with the base color. Filters was often confused with washes. It's definitely not the same technique and the expecting result is totally different.
Filters is a highly more diluted enamel or oil mix than washes. And they are applied on the whole areas.
You must wait  about 4 hours (for enamel filter) between to  filters.




When filters are dry, I deposite small oil paints dots on every areas. Then I blend the oil colors using a round or flat brush soaked with thinner (with oil you can use enamel thinner or turpentine but avoid commercial white spirit in big bottles). The brush movements when perform the blending should be from up to down on vertical surfaces, by picking on horizontal one.
You process the fading until the effect seems good.






Let it dry for almost a day.
Before washes, I airbrush a thin layer of satin varnish. That way, I am sure the washe (diluted with enamel thinner) will not spoil the fading work.
For now, I use a dark wash of oil paints (asphalte + burnt sienna). I say " for now" because some other washes may be applied at the "dust stage". The wash is applied on specifics location like in this case around the bolt and inside lines if structure.



A long long (well very long I guess) paint chipping await and will appear in the next update.
Have a good (holy)day!

 



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18 mai 2009 1 18 /05 /mai /2009 19:16


Hello,


I devoted the end of last week to painting the camo.

After masking the yellow areas (see the technique article HERE for further details) I prepared 3 shades of grey green (in the same way of the yellow mix)

 

 

The french green is pretty far from the US olive drab. It’s a dull green with shades of grey and blue.

The new japanese armor Tamiya colors looked a perfect base for the mix.


 


 


 


 


 

 

 

 

 

 

Like previously with the yellow, I tried to perform a top light effect (zenithal illimination).

After a short time of drying, I remove the Silly putty from the model.

I am fully satisfied with the result.

 


 

 

Next steps are : decals settings, paintbrush the tracks, the exhaust pipe and minor details, filters, washes, dust effect, contrast and amplified the zenithal effect, scratches painting,

and propably :paint the figure (wish I would try to gain time for that !

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13 mai 2009 3 13 /05 /mai /2009 18:50
Hello everyone,



    The painting work starts with a very dark layer 
    to shade the model and allow the detection
    and correction of imperfections .























Then i prepare the yellow base coat with a mix of tamiya colors.
I add same amount of clear to give a satin finish
and dilute with a large amount of alcohol
(40% of isopropyl alcohol and 60% of demineralized water).
You can use the
black undercoat to create first contrast.












Now the highlight work with two more mix. Mix A is the base coat, B is the same with more XF 55
and the final highlighting mix is B with equal part of XF2.














The final result after the highlight work. I guess this is not really the modulation technique. My process is closed to the zenithal figure illumination (light is more intense from top to the bottom). It simply makes the base deeper with contrast and prepare the weathering work.


Next will be the masking stage with silly putty.
Take care

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Published by Emilien Pépin - dans FCM 2C
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11 mai 2009 1 11 /05 /mai /2009 20:47
Hi friends,
I finally complete the assembly. The tracks needed to be carefully set and it was longer than expected.
Painting stages will follow.
Take care
E.



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Published by Emilien Pépin - dans FCM 2C
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3 mai 2009 7 03 /05 /mai /2009 23:48
Hello there,

It took me 10 days to finish the assembly of this giant beast. It is not really completed and I would need two evening session to track the terrestrial crusader.
Chance is on my team......the latest issue (N° 13) of the french historical military magazine "TNT" publish a very detailled article about the FCM 2C with some pictures I did not have. So with this helpfuly docmentations I had few home made details.
This model is heavy......600 g and 1.0 kg with the metal track.
I am still asking myself if I assemble the whole tracks or just the lower section (include the parts around the idler and drive wheels)  and let the upper section apart to make the painted job easier.

I made some adds on the blog :
- the "contact me" links you directly to your email default program
- you can subscrib to the newsletter, to be informed of the latest news on the blog and receive some goodies (free PDF printable articles will coming soon...).
(This part is anonymous, I won't be able to know your email adress.)









I hope you enjoyed the pictures. Next add will be the tracks assembling.
Cheers

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29 avril 2009 3 29 /04 /avril /2009 19:07

Good evening

 

 

 


Well the first trouble with this model has just begun. I thought that the scale plan given by Azimut on the instruction sheet was correct. But not…..

First i  drew  the pieces using a “ paper traces” and carried them over a white printer paper. Then I cutted the paper skirts and checked if it fits. After some size and shape corrections, I report the piece of paper on a brass alloy sheet.

First I cut around the skirt roughly before clearly cut off the side skirt with pro model scissors (straight and curved model). The shape was refined using metal files and sand paper.










 

 

Once the first side was completed I thought: « Ok, it has been absorbing but now I have just to duplicate each plate and set them on the other side and then …go to bed ! » So what a disappointment as I notices that the sides of the tank are not  symetric and the skirt I just prepared didn’t fit on the other side. Funny, is not it ?

I had to apply the same work for the other side……

My first long FCM 2C night and I guess it won’t be the last……

Cheers

 

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29 avril 2009 3 29 /04 /avril /2009 13:07
Hello,

The FCM 2C kit is about 10 years old. It was produced  300 copies with modifications during the production (lower hull simplified to make the assembling of the road wheels easier and upper part holding the exhaust pipes corrected by adding the crew  evacuation hatch).
The kit is mainly resin cast with plastic ("shot run" type!) road wheels and tracks. The kit was sold in japan with a white metal tracks set.
I would like to thanks Mr Didier Chomette for providing the last metal
tracks set  !!
The kit is now out of stock, and sometimes it appears on bidding sites at very expensive prices.....



On left the part of the second kit generation. On right, the same part after modified it with saw to set the road wheels.


The next step will be the side skirts.....



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26 avril 2009 7 26 /04 /avril /2009 17:25
Hello,
I realise that the Saumur Show is now in a month so I decide to start the count down. The FCM 2 C has to be complete for the  show........
Deadline : 29 May

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