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27 mai 2009 3 27 /05 /mai /2009 19:40
Hello everyone,
The FCM 2C is ready to entry the Saumur contest this week end. It took me 3 to 4 hours a day during the last 4 weeks to assembly, paint it.
I would like to thanks  people who share experience and FCM2C pictures with me. Thanks a lot guys!!
Well...as I spent  a lot of time on it and  I deserve some rest. Just after the show in Saumur I will catch a plan to California. I will have a trip  from Las Vegas to San Fransicso through Los Angeles. I'll be back on the third week end of june with new project to show you.

Take care and happy modelling to everyone!



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26 mai 2009 2 26 /05 /mai /2009 20:49
Good evening,

The FCM2C is now almost completed. Only the  headlight is missing. It will be set soon.





Cheers
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24 mai 2009 7 24 /05 /mai /2009 01:44
Hello,
Paint chipping is now completed.
I show this work only on the turret due to the kit 's size.
The superficial scratches are painted with a lighter color than the camouflage spots base color.





Deeper scratches are painted with black, dark brown and black grey.

The result on the hull.


Now i go to bed.
Good night
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21 mai 2009 4 21 /05 /mai /2009 14:07
Hello everyone,

Today the paint fading is discussed. According to many modellers, this step is the start of weathering. It gives more contrast and  used look to the model.

Before fading, I applied two filters on the model. Colors are chosen compared with the base color. Filters was often confused with washes. It's definitely not the same technique and the expecting result is totally different.
Filters is a highly more diluted enamel or oil mix than washes. And they are applied on the whole areas.
You must wait  about 4 hours (for enamel filter) between to  filters.




When filters are dry, I deposite small oil paints dots on every areas. Then I blend the oil colors using a round or flat brush soaked with thinner (with oil you can use enamel thinner or turpentine but avoid commercial white spirit in big bottles). The brush movements when perform the blending should be from up to down on vertical surfaces, by picking on horizontal one.
You process the fading until the effect seems good.






Let it dry for almost a day.
Before washes, I airbrush a thin layer of satin varnish. That way, I am sure the washe (diluted with enamel thinner) will not spoil the fading work.
For now, I use a dark wash of oil paints (asphalte + burnt sienna). I say " for now" because some other washes may be applied at the "dust stage". The wash is applied on specifics location like in this case around the bolt and inside lines if structure.



A long long (well very long I guess) paint chipping await and will appear in the next update.
Have a good (holy)day!

 



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18 mai 2009 1 18 /05 /mai /2009 19:16


Hello,


I devoted the end of last week to painting the camo.

After masking the yellow areas (see the technique article HERE for further details) I prepared 3 shades of grey green (in the same way of the yellow mix)

 

 

The french green is pretty far from the US olive drab. It’s a dull green with shades of grey and blue.

The new japanese armor Tamiya colors looked a perfect base for the mix.


 


 


 


 


 

 

 

 

 

 

Like previously with the yellow, I tried to perform a top light effect (zenithal illimination).

After a short time of drying, I remove the Silly putty from the model.

I am fully satisfied with the result.

 


 

 

Next steps are : decals settings, paintbrush the tracks, the exhaust pipe and minor details, filters, washes, dust effect, contrast and amplified the zenithal effect, scratches painting,

and propably :paint the figure (wish I would try to gain time for that !

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18 mai 2009 1 18 /05 /mai /2009 18:55

There are several techniques to reproduce a straight edge (I usually use “straight edge” but I think “clean edge” would be more appropriate?) camouflage scheme. You can use pre shaped tape as mask or maskol. The tape masking technique allows the best result although the difficulties to mask out of reach areas. The maskol (more generally mask liquid from humbrol or microscale) might be a good way for this work.  However it often doesn’t remove easily. Some modellers use “white spirit” to remove humbrol maskol but only if your base coat is an acrylic base!!

As far as i am concerned, I noticed that the silly putty looks like the better way to paint this kind of scheme.

I first tried this putty after reading the B1 Bis article from Marcus Nicholls in Tamiya Mag.

It was almost impossible to get these kid putty in France,so i ordered two boxes in UK.  The brand is not silly putty but kinky putty!!

Lately I saw this kind of putty in a toy store in France......

 

 

This putty is different from the blue or yellew take (the fixing putty). It’s looks like a polymer with shape memory. You can extend it by slowly streching or cut it withy a fast strectchnig movement.

 


The tools you need

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 






First your stretch the putty to make slim

part roughly sized.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 





Then you cut the amount of putty you need and pre shape it with fingers.




















 

 


















You apply the putty  on the the model’s chosen area. You shape and put it using the tool.



You should know that the silly putty spreads out a little after being set so I advise you to wait few minutes and check again the shape before starting the painting stage.


 

This putty doesn’t spoil the paint, whatever the time you let it set on the model.

After painting, you have just to remove the putty using a pincel and replace it in its box. It’s re-usable!!!!



 

 

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18 mai 2009 1 18 /05 /mai /2009 13:15

Hello,

The new SteelMasters N°93

Table of contents :
  • Historique : le 5e RCA
  • FAMO 1/72
  • SIG 33 Auf Pz.Pkfw III 1/35
  • Churchill MKIII 1/35
  • Jagdluther 1/35
  • B1BIS 1/72
  • Sherman 105 du RBCO 1/35
  • Type 97 TE KE 1/35
  • SU-100 1/72

 

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13 mai 2009 3 13 /05 /mai /2009 18:50
Hello everyone,



    The painting work starts with a very dark layer 
    to shade the model and allow the detection
    and correction of imperfections .























Then i prepare the yellow base coat with a mix of tamiya colors.
I add same amount of clear to give a satin finish
and dilute with a large amount of alcohol
(40% of isopropyl alcohol and 60% of demineralized water).
You can use the
black undercoat to create first contrast.












Now the highlight work with two more mix. Mix A is the base coat, B is the same with more XF 55
and the final highlighting mix is B with equal part of XF2.














The final result after the highlight work. I guess this is not really the modulation technique. My process is closed to the zenithal figure illumination (light is more intense from top to the bottom). It simply makes the base deeper with contrast and prepare the weathering work.


Next will be the masking stage with silly putty.
Take care

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12 mai 2009 2 12 /05 /mai /2009 19:42
Hello,
I received a big heavy package today. Guess what?  It was the prices of the auriga and Zimmerit web contest.
So thanks the Italian Guys.

WEB AWARD ARMOR


All the package contents :

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11 mai 2009 1 11 /05 /mai /2009 20:47
Hi friends,
I finally complete the assembly. The tracks needed to be carefully set and it was longer than expected.
Painting stages will follow.
Take care
E.



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